The most affordable and effective way to insulate your existing Los Angeles home. Complete attic coverage that fills every gap and void.
Local Los Angeles Company
It’s loose-fill material we blow into your attic using specialized equipment. Unlike batt insulation that comes in pre-cut rolls, blown-in flows around pipes, wires, and junction boxes. No gaps. No voids. Just a seamless thermal blanket across your entire attic floor.
Here’s why it matters for Los Angeles homes: most houses in Adams Hill, Chevy Chase, and Rossmoyne weren’t built for easy retrofits. Trying to stuff batts around old wiring and oddly-spaced joists? That’s a nightmare. Blown-in just flows wherever it needs to go.
Most jobs take a single day. We’ve done hundreds of Los Angeles attics – from cramped 800 sq ft bungalows in Montecito Park to sprawling 2,500 sq ft ranches in Verdugo Woodlands. Here’s how it works:
We get this question a lot. Honestly? Both work great. But there are real differences that might tip the scales for your home.
Made from recycled glass spun into fine fibers. It’s lightweight and won’t burn. Moisture doesn’t faze it, so mold isn’t an issue. You’ll get about R-2.2 to R-2.7 per inch, and it holds that R-value for decades without settling much.
Recycled newspaper treated with fire retardants. Packs denser than fiberglass – you’ll hit R-3.2 to R-3.8 per inch. That density also seals air leaks better than fiberglass can.
Not every attic needs blown-in. But if any of these sound like your situation, it’s probably your best bet:
Here’s the bottom line: blown-in gives you the most bang for your buck. We’ll break it down.
Real numbers: a typical 1,500 sq ft Los Angeles home runs $1,800-2,400 for blown-in to R-38. Spray foam for the same house? $6,000-9,000. Blown-in won’t seal air leaks as well, but for most homes, it’s plenty.
Spanish Revival bungalows in Rossmoyne. Craftsman homes in Adams Hill. Mid-century ranches scattered across Verdugo Woodlands. These houses have character. They also have attics that weren’t designed for modern insulation.
Blown-in handles these challenges better than any other option:
We’ve insulated hundreds of older Los Angeles homes – in Chevy Chase, Glenoaks Canyon, Sparr Heights, and throughout the historic neighborhoods. It’s what we do.
Here’s something most people don’t realize: a 4% gap in your insulation can cut its effectiveness by 50%. Four percent. That’s a couple square feet in a typical attic.
Batts are notorious for leaving gaps. Every wire, every pipe, every junction box creates a void. Hot air finds those voids like water finds a crack.
Blown-in doesn’t leave gaps. It can’t. The stuff flows like sand into every corner and crevice:
Walk through any Los Angeles neighborhood built before 1970. Those houses have been modified, added onto, rewired. Blown-in is the only insulation that can handle that kind of complexity.
R-value measures how well insulation blocks heat. Higher is better. For Los Angeles (Climate Zone 9), the Department of Energy recommends R-30 to R-60 in your attic. Here’s what that means in actual inches.
What do we usually recommend? R-38 for most Los Angeles homes. If you’re currently sitting at R-11 or R-19 (we see this constantly in Montecito Park and Adams Hill), going to R-38 is going to transform how your house feels in August.
We’ll be there around 8am and gone by mid-afternoon. Here’s how the day unfolds.
Usually, yes. That's actually one of the best things about blown-in - we don't have to tear out what's already there. We just add depth on top. The exception? If your existing insulation is wet, moldy, or contaminated with rodent droppings, it needs to come out first. We'll tell you upfront during the free assessment.
It settles a bit - about 10-20% in the first couple years. Here's the thing: we know that, so we overfill. If you're paying for R-38, you're getting R-38 after it settles. Once it's settled, it stays put for decades. Cellulose settles more than fiberglass, but we adjust the depth accordingly.
Honestly, both work great for most Glendale attics. Cellulose seals air leaks a little better and costs less. Fiberglass won't burn and handles moisture better if you ever get a roof leak. Our usual advice: cellulose for standard attic floors, fiberglass if you've got lots of recessed lights or HVAC equipment up there.
It would if we didn't install baffles first. These are rigid foam channels that go at every soffit opening. They create an air path from your soffits to the ridge vent, even when insulation's piled up right to the roof edge. We include baffles in every job - your attic still needs to breathe.
We're pretty careful about this. We seal off the attic access before we start and cover any HVAC returns. The machine and all the bags stay outside. Will there be any dust at all? Probably a trace amount. But most homeowners don't notice anything. We clean up before we leave.
